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John Zander’s family has owned a stretch of land along New Jersey’s southern coast for 30 years, but he only recently dubbed the farm “Cohansey Meadows.” Meadows for the term that residents of the region use to refer to the vast marshes that create a fluid transition between solid ground and the water of the Delaware Bay.
Three acres of meadows provide habitat for insects. Compared to staple crops like corn and rice, wine grapes barely occupy a speck of the world’s farmland, at about 18 million acres. In Napa in 2022, Whitlow remembered, a particularly searing heat wave hit right at harvest time. Grape harvest photo courtesy of Dodon.
The farm is small with a remarkably diverse array of landscapes woodland, ancient meadows, a stream that runs through the farm drawing a broad range of creatures and birds. The demands of growing cities are increasingly impinging on farmland.
Until 1990, the system of collective farms in a country that had been able to utilise its abundant water to irrigate most farmland, meant Albania was self-sufficient in food. Collective farms grew local varieties and saved the seed of landraces that flourished in the varied growing environments across the country.
He planted wheat and other grains directly into the meadows and relied solely on rainfall for much of his acreage. He was specifically denied coverage for harvested crops grown in the grasslands. Just over a decade ago, he began converting his 11,000-acre farm to perennial native grassland to rebuild the health of his soil.
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